To create your own custom diy lanyard, you’ll need to braid a length of cord and tie a knot. Next, you’ll need to secure the lanyard hook. Once you have the hook secured, you can thread the strands of fabric to create your own lanyard. These steps are easy to follow and will help you create the perfect lanyard for your needs. If you’re having trouble, read this article for some tips.
Steps to make a diy lanyard
Braiding a lanyard cord
Lanyard tie knot
Secure a lanyard hook
Threading lanyard strands
Finishing a lanyard
How to braid a lanyard cord
To make a DIY lanyard, you’ll need a length of paracord approximately twice as long as you’d like it to be. Start by doubling the length of the cord, preferably on a sturdy nail. This will form the core of the lanyard. The remaining 90 feet of cord should be positioned behind the core, with the ends secured with rubber bands. Use square knots to tie around the core. Be sure to bring the right knot to the left side of the core strands. After you’ve finished braiding the cord, you can begin attaching it to the carabiner.
Make sure the cord is three to four feet long. Choose a different color if possible. Then, braid the two cords in a circle. Pull the loops of the circle through each other, double over the strands and draw them up towards the center of the lanyard. Repeat this process until you’ve used up all the material. Once the lanyard is complete, you’re ready to wear it.
How to make a lanyard tie knot
In this article I’ll walk you through the steps to create a DIY lanyard tie knot. The steps are pretty simple, but it’s always good to have a little help. If you’re not sure what to do, you can use pictures. First, cut the Paracord. Then, make a bight from the end of the cord. Next, you’ll make a decorative knot. You’ll then use a flame from a lighter to tie a lanyard knot.
To make the snake knot, begin by folding your fabric in half. Then, fold it in half again and place a lobster clip at one end. Then, sew along the raw edges. Make sure the seam allowance is about 1/4 inch or six millimeters. Once the loop is complete, remove the clips and cut the excess cord. If the ends are fraying, melt them with a lighter before you close the loop.
How to secure a lanyard hook
How to secure a ring or a lanyard hook to a keychain or a pocket? To make your DIY lanyard more secure, you need to know how to properly install a lanyard hook. Lanyard hooks are usually attached to zipper pulls, key rings, and other items. The lanyards themselves are made of string and should be secure in order to keep the device safe.
To make a DIY lanyard, gather two lengths of material. It should be three to four feet long, preferably in different colors. Then, double over these strands. After double strands are arranged, place a lanyard hook in the center and draw it up through the loops. Once it’s securely attached to the keychain, use the scissors to trim the extra cord strands.
How to thread lanyard strands
In order to make a DIY lanyard, you’ll need two strands of material, each about three to four feet long. Make sure they’re different colors, and double over them to form a loop. Thread the lanyard hook through the center of both strands, then pull them tight and trim them to length. Once you’ve made a custom lanyard for yourself or a friend, here are the steps you should follow.
First, you need to fold your lanyard fabric in half or quarters. Attach a lobster clip at one end. Sew the loop closed with a 1/4 inch or six mm seam allowance. Repeat the process with the other end. When you’re done, you’ll have a lanyard that looks professional and elegant. After you’ve made it, be sure to keep it symmetrical by securing it with a keychain or clip.
How to finish a lanyard
Whether you’re making a DIY lanyard for a key chain, belt loop, or water bottle, you can always use a lanyard to hang your stuff. Here are some tips for finishing your lanyard. First, make sure that all strands are the same length. Next, you need to knot them all together. If you’re using more than two colors, make sure you wrap the strands around the other side of the strand.
Photo Source: WikiHow.com
Next, you’ll want to finish the lanyard by adding a clasp. Place the clasp near the seam where you joined the short ends of the strap. Pin or clip the clasp in place. Once it’s secure, the lanyard is ready to use. You can repeat the steps above each semester, but you’ll likely want to use the same lanyard for school. Using a clasp also prevents the lanyard from unraveling.
Look at a knife steel chart before choosing a knife steel because you should know its composition and hardness . There are different points on the Rockwell scale, depending on the purpose of the knife.
Source: Offgridweb.com
The following table lists the most common knife steels, along with the amount of each. It also includes the percentage of carbon and Chromium and other important attributes.
Most common knife steel
Carbon
Chromium
Chromium alloys
Carbon content
Hardness
If you’re planning to make production knives, you should pay attention to the Carbon and Chromium content. However, it may not be enough to find the perfect knife steel for your needs.
Carbon
Before buying a new knife, it is important to understand what type of steel you need. Different types of steel have different hardness levels, and it is important to know how you plan to use your knife to determine which one is best for your needs. A knife with a high carbon content, for example, can be very rigid and can chip easily. If you’re buying a knife for everyday use, you should look for a knife with a lower carbon content to keep it from bending or breaking when you’re using it.
Another important consideration is the knife’s performance. Stainless steel blades have superior corrosive resistance, but their edge retention is limited. This is because stainless steel requires a certain amount of carbon in order to resist corrosion. But carbon is not the only consideration. Heat treatment is also crucial. It’s essential to compare knife steel composition to other similar steels to ensure you’re getting the best quality. The chart shows the most common temperatures that will cause your knife to rust, and the type of heat treatment used to make it.
Another important characteristic is corrosion resistance. While the highest-grade carbon steel is essentially the hardest steel, too much carbon will cause it to break or chip. If a knife is too hard, it’s likely to chip or break when used frequently. If it rusts under the right conditions, it will eventually break. So it’s best to choose a knife with a higher carbon content. The higher the carbon content, the harder the knife will be, but the trade-off is increased strength and anti-corrosion capabilities.
Chromium Steel
A knife’s performance is determined by the type of steel it is made of. Steel is a carbon and iron alloy that is enriched with certain elements, such as chromium. Different types of steel have different chromium content, depending on their use. While chromium increases corrosion resistance, it also absorbs some of the chromium in carbon steels. Chromium is added to the steel during the manufacturing process, making it a superior choice for blades.
Stainless steel contains the most chromium, and is the most common. Unlike carbon steel, stainless steel does not rust in air. Its sharpness isn’t very long-lasting, but it’s better than low-quality carbon steel. This steel also requires less sharpening than other types of knife steel, and can easily be sharpened without using power tools. 420 stainless steel, used in many Buck knives, has less chromium than 440. It’s tougher than 440, but will dull quickly.
Carbon is the main element in steel, and varies in percentage to create various properties. Chromium is an anti-rust additive, while manganese makes blades harder and more durable. High amounts of manganese, on the other hand, can make a knife steel brittle and prone to chipping on hard surfaces.
Carbon-based knife steel contains a high amount of carbon, but does not have the chromium content that stainless steel needs to resist corrosion. Additionally, a high amount of carbon also leads to rusting, which is undesirable for a knife’s performance.
Some chromium steels have a five-digit SAE/AISI designation instead of two, which indicates their carbon content. When comparing chromium content between two different knives, you can choose the best for your needs. You can even choose a knife that is made of different materials. Fortunately, there are plenty of high-quality stainless steel options available on the market. The main consideration is whether it is a good choice for your purposes.
Chromium alloys
Many knives use the SAE/AISI designation of D2, a Japanese tool steel containing almost enough chromium to be considered stainless steel. While D2 knife steel is tough and corrosion-resistant, it lacks hardness in comparison to cheaper alloys. Nevertheless, it retains a first-class edge for a long time. While D2 is prone to rust, it is still a good choice for a knife. This steel contains 12% chromium.
Other popular grades of steel used in knifemaking include CTS-204P, CPM-20CV, and ATS 34. CTS-204P is comparable to CPM-20CV, but has a higher percentage of vanadium. While M390 is very hard, it is difficult to sharpen, making it an ideal choice for knives that will be used frequently in salt water environments. ATS 34 is the toughest type of steel, although it also has an extra dose of chromium.
Another type of alloy is niobium. Niobium is a silver-gray transitional metal that can absorb chromium and contribute toughness. Niobium is a silver-gray transitional metal that adds toughness and improves corrosion resistance. Chromium is an essential element for knife steel, but some knives do not contain it. While all stainless steels have high chromium content, these blades are still susceptible to rusting when exposed to extreme environments.
SAE 300 series stainless steel is made from chromium-nickel alloy. It is made with a ferritic crystalline structure. It contains chromium and nickel, and has a higher corrosion resistance and harderness than austenitic structures. SAE 301 Full Hard is commonly used for knife blades and stainless trays. It is also more pliable than SAE 400 series stainless steel.
Carbon content
Knife steels can vary in the amount of carbon they contain. High carbon steels are tougher and more resistant to elements than low carbon steels. High carbon steels are typically used for knives that are subjected to aggressive environments. They can contain chromium, nickel, and titanium in various ratios. However, they can also contain other elements, including aluminum, silicon, and copper. In most cases, higher carbon content does not affect a knife’s hardness.
Some common Japanese carbon steels contain up to 1.3% carbon. CPM 4V, for example, has 0.74% carbon and 0.54% vanadium, which are good indicators of toughness and heat treatment characteristics. Alternatively, CPM 9V contains less carbon, and more vanadium to improve toughness. Another proprietary knife steel is CPM CRU-WEAR, which is an upgraded version of conventional Cru-Wear. The alloys added to this steel increase its wear resistance and ductility.
Stainless steel is another common type of knife steel. The carbon content in this steel ranges from 0.05% to 2.1%. Most knives are made of carbon steel, and manufacturers often refer to all of their steel as such. Carbon steel is hard, but other materials can add hardness and corrosion resistance. A hard knife will also be brittle and prone to rust. A good carbon steel is a balanced blend of high carbon content and minimal additions as describe in our knife steel chart above.
Another high carbon knife steel is ATS 34. This tool steel has a carbon content of 1.5 percent. This steel has an edge-holding performance comparable to ATS 34 and is considered tough enough for surgical use. This steel also has a high hardness level. In fact, it is almost as tough as CPM S90V steel. It is also more rust-resistant than CPM S90V, and is used in most cases.
Knife Steel Hardness
To choose the best knife steel, determine its hardness. Its hardness is measured on the Rockwell scale, and the harder the steel, the better the knife will hold its edge. Harder steel will hold an edge longer but is less durable. Knife steel with a HRC rating of 55 or higher will hold an edge longer, but they are more difficult to sharpen when dull. Knives made of soft steel are easier to maintain, but will lose their sharpness more easily.
A high-quality knife steel will also be tough. It is a measure of its resistance to breakage, chipping, and cracking. Toughness is the opposite of brittleness. However, testing for toughness is not standardized, and the results are often difficult to correlate with hardness measurements. Common toughness tests include various impact and bend fracture tests. In general, knives with a 57-59 HRC hardness rating are recommended, but some cheaper models may be as low as 50.
In general, the higher the Rockwell number, the more durable the knife. This is especially true of high-carbon steel knives. A good example of this is the Benchmade 581 Barrage, which is made of M390 steel. This knife is one of the few knives available with M390 steel. A similar model is made of CPM-S35VN steel. However, there are other hardness grades available, such as D2 and HRC.
In addition to the hardness, knife steel also has some other properties that determine its performance. For instance, knife steels are classified based on their toughness and wear resistance. They are also rated by their resistance to corrosion. All these factors can make the difference between a good knife and a great one. And, in general, the tougher the knife steel, the better. So, how do you decide which knife steel is best? Consult your knife steel chart beforehand.
Using Resorcinol glue, Epoxy resin, Micarta, or Wood as a stabilizing bone for knife handles is the standard method for restoring knives. But what if you’d like to make your own handle? Read on to learn about the benefits of these materials and how they can be used to repair a bone handle. We’ll also explore the pros and cons of each method. Ultimately, it’s all about personal preference.
Resorcinol glue
A good handle material is Resorcinol glue it is a durable industrial adhesive that keeps things together even in wet and dry conditions. Its high strength allows it to withstand high temperatures and has a very low water absorption rate. This glue is also highly resistant to corrosive conditions, such as saltwater and abrasion.
Manufactured from resorcinol, Resorcinol glue is a natural compound obtained by reacting a large amount of resin with potassium hydroxide. It has many medical uses, from surgery to cosmetic products. Because it’s so strong, resorcinol is an excellent choice for knife handles.
Epoxy resin handles
The process of stabilizing wood is an excellent way to protect your handle from wear and decay. It can also make softer woods hard enough for heavy use. Whether you’re making a knife handle for your own use or for selling, this process can help you make a great handle.
It takes just five simple steps: load the wood, saturate it with resin, cure it, and color it. Wood is the most common material for knife handles, but it is susceptible to change in temperature and humidity. For this reason, it can be difficult to manufacture knife handles with tight tolerances.
Although cow and giraffe bones are the most common types of bones used for handle materials, you can also find handles made from giraffe and elephant bone. These are both dense and add a sense of exoticism to your knife. Keep in mind, though, that bone handles can become porous over time, so it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding on the material for your handle. Luckily, there are a number of products on the market that are already stabilized and dyed with phenolic resin.
Knife Handle from Wood
When making a knife handle from wood, there are a couple of important considerations to consider. Wood needs to be stabilized before the knife maker can start crafting. First, wood handles need to be dried in a vacuum before applying resin. If the wood is solid and cool, it may be sufficient for a knife handle. If it isn’t, the next step will be applying a dye to the wood.
Another option for staining the bone is to use glue. Glutamate glue is a type of glue made from skin and bone material. It comes in liquid form and in hot glue granules. However, this type of glue is not waterproof. Alternatively, epoxy glue can be used. Epoxy glue is a transparent, gap-filling material that bonds the bones tightly together. It is particularly suitable for repairing tiny defects in the bone.
Micarta knife handle material
Micarta is a thermoplastic material created from layers of paper, linen, or canvas. Micarta is a registered trademark of Norplex-Micarta Industrial Plastics and is an excellent material for knife handles. Micarta is lightweight and resistant to abrasion and bending. It is also relatively indestructible. It is an excellent material for custom makers and is now also used on some production knives.
A thermoplastic grivory will outlast a blade, if properly maintained. It contains no metal whatsoever, so it should last for decades. It is also extremely strong and will most likely outlast the blade. Micarta is not a single material, but rather a composite of materials soaked in plastic. Micarta can be made from canvas, linen, carbon fiber, fiberglass, or paper.
Antlers are solid and stable
The use of antler is very common for knives. The antler crown has a central core that provides a very solid and stable surface for carving, inlaying gemstones, and other artwork. These antlers can be carved into belt buckles, conchos, and other pieces of jewelry. The antlers are quite resilient, so the use of them as knife handles doesn’t need any special care.
There are several different types of antler used for making knife handles. A good example of this material is that of the Sambar stag in India. While the Sambar antler has been banned for export for several years, the material remains a collector’s item. Traditional pocketknives have been made of this material. Other options include Micarta, which uses a resin-saturated substrate, and G-10, which uses a fiberglass substrate.
We’ve taken a look at the Spyderco Native 5 and Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight and examined the knives’ lock designs, stainless steel blades, and lock design. We’ll also discuss the new CTS-BD1N blade that Spyderco has recently introduced. Read on to learn more about these new Spyderco knives. Weigh in at only 2.6 ounces, the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight is a small, but impressive blade.
Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight
The lightweight construction of the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight scale allows for nearly 30 percent weight savings over the original model. FRN scales are used in the Para 3 Lightweight. The scales’ bi-directional texturing provides a secure grip. Compression locks nest underneath the front scale. The knife’s stainless steel blade and lockbar boast high carbon and nitrogen content for balance and strength. The Para 3 Lightweight scales also feature a molded threaded insert.
For installation, you’ll need basic tools and knowledge of electronic instruments. You’ll need a high-quality torx bit set for screws and pivots. A video can help you get started. Because there are so many small parts, taking apart the Spyderco Para 3 isn’t recommended unless you’re a professional or have access to a shop. Also, attempting to disassemble the scale yourself may void your warranty.
Spyderco Native 5
The Spyderco Native 5 Lightweight has a satin M4 steel blade and Mint Green FRN scales. The Native series is known for its excellent ergonomics and excellent build quality. The Native 5 is designed to allow you to choose between two different grip styles, offering the ultimate in leverage and control. With a back-lock system and strong lockback, the Native 5 is ready for the job.
One of the biggest differences between the Native 5 and its competitors is the handle. The Native 5 is made with a deep carry paperclip design, which is similar to the handles of many $20 Chinese production knives. This means that you won’t have to deal with the full-size pocket clip when carrying your knife. The Native 5 is also very durable, and it’s easy to maintain and sharp. The Spyderco Native 5 weighs 2.7 oz.
Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight’s lock design
The lock design on the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight is unique in many ways. The knife’s leaf-shaped lock is easy to open and close, and the blade’s point is super strong. It has a slightly raised belly, which is perfect for slicing, and an oversized thumb hole. The Spyderco Para 3 is made in Golden, Colorado. We tested it ourselves to see what we thought.
The Para 3 Lightweight’s lock design is also innovative, combining textured FRN scales with a lockbar insert. The lockbar insert wedges between the blade and the stop pin when it’s in the open position. This feature makes it ideal for fidgety users, but it does mean that you won’t be able to open your blade if you’re holding it at an angle.
Spyderco’s new CTS-BD1N stainless steel blade
The Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight has a compact design that makes it 30 percent lighter than other similar-sized folding knives. It features an open-backed construction with high-traction Bi-Directional Texture and a stainless steel lock bar, inset into the handle’s interior. A nitrogen-enriched high-carbon chromium steel blade (CTS-BD1N) provides superior edge retention and corrosion resistance.
This knife has a high-quality CTS-BD1N stainless steel blade with a satin finish. The CTS-BD1N steel has a CTS-BD1N hardness of 60-63HRC, and is complemented by a textured black FRN handle. The blade also has a notch for a lanyard or other accessory, making it an excellent choice for tip-up carry.
Spyderco’s maroon linen micarta scales
RC BladeWorks‘ maroon linen micarta lightweight scale kit is a great replacement for factory G10 scales. Made in the USA, these scales feature a smooth surface and a comfortable grip area. Customizing your Spyderco with these lightweight scales is an excellent option for serious bladesmiths. Just be sure to consult Spyderco’s warranty prior to installation, as doing so may void your warranty.
The Spyderco Para 3 knife is a great value at $82 and comes with a 92″ stainless steel blade, FRN handle, and maroon linen micarta PC. For a small additional cost, you can purchase replacement micarta scales in Worn Blue Denim or Maroon linen. These knives also have a stainless steel or titanium blade, as well as a pocket clip.
Serrated Vs Plain Edge Kitchen Knives which is better? Almost 99% of partially-serrated and serrated kitchen knives are ground the same way. The major differences between these two kinds of knives are their lengths and grinds. Serrated knives are typically longer than their plain edge counterparts, but they still sacrifice length for greater precision.
Here are some pros and cons of each. Read on to find out which one you should get. This article will give you the information you need to make an informed decision on the serrated vs plain edge kitchen knives debate.
Serrated Vs Plain Edge Kitchen Knives
Hollow ground
A basic knowledge of knife edges can make a big difference when cooking. There are dozens of different styles and functions for knives, including hollow ground, serrated, and plain edge. Wusthof, a German knife manufacturer since 1814, offers hundreds of different knives with different edge shapes and styles.
Wusthof knives are commonly available at a range of retail stores and online. Serrated and plain edge knives are the most common types of kitchen knives.
Hollow-ground edges are made with concave primary bevels. They have a thin support near the edge, which makes them very sharp. The downside of hollow ground knives is that they need more sharpening than other kinds of kitchen knives. However, this grind is generally more durable and is an affordable option for many kitchens. Hollow ground knives are often found on lower-cost production knives, and can be sufficient for many tasks.
Pros
Serrated vs. plain edge kitchen knives: which one’s better? The debate on which type is better dates back to long before the internet was even around. Serrated knives are more efficient and have more versatility, while plain edge blades can be less friendly to new users. However, both types of blades are effective at different tasks. However, plain edge knives are more suited for most tasks.
The basic difference between the two is the edge. A serrated knife is thinner than a plain one, but it is more likely to rip the object you’re slicing or chopping. However, a plain edge can still perform well for most people. Sharpening a plain edge is more difficult than sharpening a serrated blade. If you’re in doubt, you should purchase a serrated knife.
99% of partially-serrated knives are ground exactly the opposite way
When choosing a knife, make sure you look at the serrations. A partially-serrated blade is one with a rip-inaccurate serration. Serrations on the blade’s belly are for cutting, and serrations on the handle area are for control. While the plain edge on a partially-serrated knife may be a bit less convenient, it’s still effective for most people.
You can also check the edge of a knife by using it to slice a tomato or piece of paper. A dull blade will require more effort to cut, and the blade may slip. To check the edge of your knife, use paper or a cutting board made from tomato skin. If it cuts through the paper smoothly, it’s sharp enough. Wood or polyethylene cutting boards will create less resistance to the blade edge.
Time-saving: Serrated Vs Plain Edge Kitchen Knives
Whether you’re choosing an EDC knife or a specialized kitchen tool, it’s important to understand the difference between serrated and plain edge knives. Both have their benefits and drawbacks. Serrated edge knives are typically sharper than their plain edge counterparts, but they both require sharpening. Serrated knives are also easier to use when cutting rough materials. Luckily, most knives come with both types of edges.
Serrated knives are ideal for cutting bread and fruit. In contrast, plain edge knives are best for cutting wood. While serrated knives can be sharper than plain edge knives, you’ll need to remember to use a pointed blade. Serrated knives have a wider, sturdier edge. This makes them more effective for cutting through wood. A serrated blade can also be more precise, allowing you to get clean cuts.
Friction reducer
Serrated knives have deeper serrations than plain-edge knives, and the force exerted by the user is split between the tips of the blade. More serrations mean less power per tip, but the edges of the serrated knives are much easier to bit into food. On the other hand, blades with narrower serrations tend to bite deeper into food.
partial serrated kitchen knife
Whether you choose serrated or plain edge kitchen knives depends on your preferences and the tasks you perform on a regular basis.
Both styles are sharpened along the edge. Generally, you should do this every few weeks, but if you sharpen your knife regularly, the serrated edge is more likely to stay sharper for a longer time. Besides, micro-bevels are easier to maintain. You should make at least five light passes across the blade to keep it sharp. Mirror edges require little grit progressions, but you must pay attention to the middle ones, which remove deeper scratches. These stones are 800, 1000, and fifteen hundred grit.
We’ve taken a look at the Spyderco Native 5 and Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight Scale and examined the knives’ lock designs, stainless steel blades, and lock design. We’ll also discuss the new CTS-BD1N blade that Spyderco has recently introduced. Read on to learn more about these new Spyderco knives. Weigh in at only 2.6 ounces, the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight is a small, but impressive blade.
Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight
The lightweight construction of the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight scale allows for nearly 30 percent weight savings over the original model. FRN scales are used in the Para 3 Lightweight. The scales’ bi-directional texturing provides a secure grip. Compression locks nest underneath the front scale. The knife’s stainless steel blade and lockbar boast high carbon and nitrogen content for balance and strength. The Para 3 Lightweight scales also feature a molded threaded insert.
For installation, you’ll need basic tools and knowledge of electronic instruments. You’ll need a high-quality torx bit set for screws and pivots. A video can help you get started. Because there are so many small parts, taking apart the Spyderco Para 3 isn’t recommended unless you’re a professional or have access to a shop. Also, attempting to disassemble the scale yourself may void your warranty.
Spyderco Native 5
The Spyderco Native 5 Lightweight has a satin M4 steel blade and Mint Green FRN scales. The Native series is known for its excellent ergonomics and excellent build quality. The Native 5 is designed to allow you to choose between two different grip styles, offering the ultimate in leverage and control. With a back-lock system and strong lockback, the Native 5 is ready for the job.
One of the biggest differences between the Native 5 and its competitors is the handle. The Native 5 is made with a deep carry paperclip design, which is similar to the handles of many $20 Chinese production knives. This means that you won’t have to deal with the full-size pocket clip when carrying your knife. The Native 5 is also very durable, and it’s easy to maintain and sharp. The Spyderco Native 5 weighs 2.7 oz.
Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight’s lock design
The lock design on the Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight is unique in many ways. The knife’s leaf-shaped lock is easy to open and close, and the blade’s point is super strong. It has a slightly raised belly, which is perfect for slicing, and an oversized thumb hole. The Spyderco Para 3 is made in Golden, Colorado. We tested it ourselves to see what we thought.
The Para 3 Lightweight’s lock design is also innovative, combining textured FRN scales with a lockbar insert. The lockbar insert wedges between the blade and the stop pin when it’s in the open position. This feature makes it ideal for fidgety users, but it does mean that you won’t be able to open your blade if you’re holding it at an angle.
Spyderco’s new CTS-BD1N stainless steel blade
The Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight has a compact design that makes it 30 percent lighter than other similar-sized folding knives. It features an open-backed construction with high-traction Bi-Directional Texture and a stainless steel lock bar, inset into the handle’s interior. A nitrogen-enriched high-carbon chromium steel blade (CTS-BD1N) provides superior edge retention and corrosion resistance.
This knife has a high-quality CTS-BD1N stainless steel blade with a satin finish. The CTS-BD1N steel has a CTS-BD1N hardness of 60-63HRC, and is complemented by a textured black FRN handle. The blade also has a notch for a lanyard or other accessory, making it an excellent choice for tip-up carry.
Spyderco’s maroon linen micarta scales
RC BladeWorks’ maroon linen micarta lightweight scale kit is a great replacement for factory G10 scales. Made in the USA, these scales feature a smooth surface and a comfortable grip area. Customizing your Spyderco with these lightweight scales is an excellent option for serious bladesmiths. Just be sure to consult Spyderco’s warranty prior to installation, as doing so may void your warranty.
The Spyderco Para 3 knife is a great value at $82 and comes with a 92″ stainless steel blade, FRN handle, and maroon linen micarta PC. For a small additional cost, you can purchase replacement micarta scales in Worn Blue Denim or Maroon linen. These knives also have a stainless steel or titanium blade, as well as a pocket clip.
